What Is a Bomber Jacket? History, Details and How It Should Fit

Short answer: a bomber jacket is a short, zip-front jacket with rib-knit cuffs and a rib-knit hem, drawn from military flight jackets. It ends at the waist, sits snug at the cuffs and hem, and gives a blousy fit through the body. Leather bombers are a classic; nylon ones follow the same pattern.

The two-sentence definition

A bomber jacket has a short, waist-length body, a zip front, and elasticated or rib-knit bands at the cuffs and hem that hold the jacket close to the body. The collar is usually rib-knit or a small flat or standing collar.

If a jacket has a straight hem, no cuff bands and a long body, it is something else, such as a field jacket or a blouson.

A short history

Bomber jackets come from jackets made for military aircrew. Early flight jackets were designed for open or unheated cockpits, so they were warm, short enough to let a pilot sit comfortably and snug at the wrists and waist to keep drafts out. The leather A-2, which the U.S. Air Corps updated from the earlier A-1 in 1931 according to the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, is one of the best-known examples, and later nylon flight jackets followed the same idea. Over time the style moved into civilian wear. See our article on the original A-2 flight jacket for the history in detail.

Key details that define a bomber

• Rib-knit cuffs and hem. The most obvious feature. They hold the jacket close and keep air out.
• Zip front. Usually a center-front zip; some vintage-style jackets use a different closure.
• Collar. Rib-knit, flat, standing or shearling, depending on the style.
• Pockets. Slash pockets at the sides, sometimes with flaps, and a small chest or sleeve pocket on some designs.
• Lining. A smooth lining for light jackets or a quilted or insulated one for cold weather.

Bombers come in leather, nylon and cotton. A leather bomber is heavier, develops character with wear and costs more. Nylon is light and often has a shinier surface.

Bomber, flight jacket and aviator: how they differ

These names overlap. "Flight jacket" and "aviator jacket" usually mean the military or military-inspired styles; "bomber" is the general name for the short rib-cuff style. Shops often use them interchangeably. Our comparison aviator vs bomber jacket breaks down the A-2, B-3 and shearling styles in a table.

How a bomber should fit

The rib bands are the usual giveaway. If the hem band rides up or squeezes, the jacket is too small through the hips. If the cuffs hang over your hand, the sleeve is too long. Check your measurements against our size chart and read short versus long jackets for how length changes your proportions.

Leather bomber care

Wipe off dirt with a soft cloth and let wet leather dry at room temperature, away from heat. Condition it once or twice a season, depending on use and the finish, according to the product's instructions. Check the rib bands too: they are knit, not leather, and can stretch or fray before the leather does. Store the jacket on a wide hanger, not folded.

Styling

• Casual: plain tee, jeans, boots or clean sneakers.
• Smart casual: knit or button-down shirt, dark chinos, leather shoes. Our article on leather bomber jackets from casual to semi-formal shows more outfits.
• Layered: a hoodie or light knit underneath in cold weather, but check the shoulders and sleeves still fit.

Because the jacket is short, it looks best over a top that ends near or below the hem. A long shirt hanging out below a short bomber breaks the line. For a style-icon perspective, read why the A1 leather bomber jacket remains a style icon.

A buying checklist

1. Shoulder seam at the edge of your shoulder.
2. Hem ends at the waist or slightly below.
3. Rib bands are snug but not tight and have good elasticity.
4. The zip runs smoothly and the stitching is even at the pockets and seams.
5. The leather feels even in thickness, without thin patches.
6. The sleeves are the right length with your arms forward.
7. The lining is intact and fits well.

A bomber is a fashion jacket unless it is built as protective gear with armor and abrasion-rated leather. Do not use a fashion bomber as a riding jacket.

Browse men's leather clothing for styles in this cut, or have a bomber built to your size.

Bomber jacket materials compared

If you want a bomber that lasts for years and changes with wear, choose leather. If you want something you can ignore, nylon is simpler. When you choose leather, check the product page for the hide and its thickness in millimeters.

FAQs

What is a bomber jacket?

A short, zip-front jacket with rib-knit cuffs and hem, inspired by military flight jackets.

What is the difference between a bomber and a flight jacket?

Flight jacket refers to the military style; bomber is the broader civilian name. The terms overlap, and shops use them loosely. See the aviator versus bomber comparison.

Are bomber jackets still in style?

Yes. The cut is simple and has stayed in use for decades, in leather and nylon.

How should a bomber jacket fit?

Shoulder seams at your shoulders, hem at the waist, snug rib bands and cuffs at the wrist.

What leather is best for a bomber?

Both cowhide and sheepskin are used. Cowhide is firmer and more durable; sheepskin is softer and lighter. See sheepskin vs cowhide for a comparison if you are choosing.

Can you wear a bomber jacket formally?

A plain leather bomber in black or dark brown works for smart-casual dress. It is not a substitute for a suit jacket at a formal event.

See custom leather jackets, including bomber cuts made to your measurements.