What Is a Letterman (Varsity) Jacket? Leather Sleeves, Patches and Custom Options

Short answer: a letterman jacket, also called a varsity jacket, is a jacket with a wool body, leather sleeves, and ribbed knit trim at the collar, cuffs and hem. It was traditionally awarded for school sports, and it carries patches or letters to show achievement. Today the name covers many styles, including all-leather versions. Leather Collection makes varsity and letterman jackets to order.

The parts of a letterman jacket

• Body: traditionally melton wool, a dense, warm fabric.
• Sleeves: leather, often in a contrasting color, which gives the jacket its look and durability.
• Rib trim: stretch knit at the collar, cuffs and hem, often striped in school colors.
• Closure: snaps are traditional. Zippers are common on modern versions.
• Pockets: slash or welt pockets at the sides.
• Patches and letters: a letter, usually on the left chest, with patches for sports, years or achievements.

Where the jacket comes from

The jacket began in American schools and colleges, where athletes earned a letter for their school and wore it on a jacket. Over time, the jacket, the letter and the patches became symbols of achievement. Accounts usually trace the letter to American college sports in the 19th century, but exact dates and firsts are disputed, so we do not name one. People now wear the style regardless of school, and the name "varsity" has come to describe the look more than the award.

Leather sleeves, all-leather or wool body

Tell us which version you want when you ask. If the wool body is a concern, an all-leather jacket gives you a similar silhouette with one material to maintain. Our custom leather jackets are the place to ask about any design you have in mind.

Patches, letters and personalization

Placement follows convention, so a custom order should state it clearly.

A custom patch checklist

1. Placement: which position, and how far from the seam.
2. Size: width and height in inches.
3. Thread colors: list each color, and whether you want a border.
4. Lettering: exact spelling, and the font style.
5. Material: whether the patch is sewn on or applied another way.
6. A sketch or reference image.

The workshop sews on patches you supply and can also make custom patches to your design. A design preview or sketch is always sent for your approval before the leather is cut.

Fit

A varsity jacket is cut straight, with a boxy shape and a slightly dropped shoulder. Check these points:

• Shoulder seam: sits at the edge of the shoulder or just past it on a classic fit.
• Sleeve length: ends at the wrist bone, with the rib cuff sitting snug.
• Chest: allows a sweater underneath but does not billow.
• Hem: a stretch rib hem sits at the hip.

The stretch rib cuffs and hem forgive small errors in sleeve and body length, but the leather sleeves do not stretch, so check the shoulder and arm measurements carefully. Use the size chart and our guide on how to read a leather jacket size chart.

How to wear it

• Casual: plain white tee, dark jeans and clean sneakers.
• Smart casual: knit polo or fine sweater, chinos and leather shoes.
• Street: hoodie underneath, relaxed trousers and boots.

Keep the rest of the outfit quiet. A varsity jacket already has plenty of detail. For more outfits, browse men's leather clothing.

Care

Wool and leather need different care, so treat them separately. Spot-clean the wool with a damp cloth and mild soap. Wipe the leather sleeves with a soft damp cloth and condition them occasionally. Do not machine-wash the jacket. For the leather side, follow our guide on how to clean a leather jacket. Store on a wide padded hanger, and keep patches from folding, which can distort them.

Varsity jacket compared with similar jackets

The bomber is the closest cousin. If you want leather and a simpler look, a leather bomber may suit you better than a varsity with patches.

Why leather sleeves?

The sleeves take the most wear, from rubbing against desks, bags and cars. Leather holds up to that, and it develops character over time. It also makes a strong visual contrast against the wool body, which is why the combination became the classic. If you want the same contrast in a more modern way, choose a leather body with wool sleeves, or two leather colors.

Before you order a custom one

Gather your reference pictures, your exact measurements, the colors you want for body, sleeves and trim, and the text and positions for patches. Leather can be ordered in any color on request. Having these ready makes a custom request faster and reduces mistakes.

Buying checklist

1. Decide on the body: wool or leather.
2. Pick colors for body, sleeves and trim.
3. Choose snaps or a zipper.
4. Plan the patches and write down the positions.
5. Measure shoulders, chest and arms, and compare with the size chart.

FAQs

Is a letterman jacket the same as a varsity jacket?

Mostly. "Letterman" refers to the school award tradition, and "varsity" is the broader name for the style.

What are letterman jackets made of?

A wool body with leather sleeves is classic. Modern versions come in all-leather or other fabrics.

How should a letterman jacket fit?

Straight and boxy, with shoulder seams at the shoulder edge, sleeves at the wrist and snug rib cuffs.

Can I get one with custom patches?

Yes. The workshop sews on patches you supply and can make custom patches to your design.

How do I clean leather sleeves on a letterman jacket?

Wipe with a damp soft cloth, let air dry away from heat and condition lightly. Test first on a hidden area.

Ask about a varsity-style build through our custom leather jackets.